Russia certainly is, if anything, a land of opposites, of sharp contrasts, of war and peace. It thus happens that in a typically mysterious Russian fashion, one of the Empire’s most reactionary monarchs – Tsar Nicholas I (Emperor from 1825 to 1855) who ruled his people by the most ruthless means and whose brutal methods earned him the name ‘the vampire’ – can also be remembered by a kind gesture performed in relation to … horses.
There was in the imperial stables an old horse called L’Ami (the friend) on whose back Nicholas’ brother Alexander I had made his triumphant entry into Paris as the proud victor of Napoleon’s Great Army. That had been in 1814, 11 years prior to Nicholas’ accession to the throne, and ever since that glorious moment L’Ami had been enjoying a quiet retirement in the royal stables. In 1825, however, he had grown too old for his usual surroundings and the question of how to treat the late Emperor’s – Alexander I had died in unexplained circumstances in December 1825 and his body had gone bafflingly missing never to be recovered – favourite horse arose. The answer of the newly crowned Nicholas I came with uncharacteristic speed. “Build a retirement home for the Empire’s most deserving horses,” he ordered.
A delightful spot in the grandiose park of the Royal Family’s summer residence 24km from Saint Petersburg – Tsarkoe Selo - was picked. Scotsman Adam Menelas, one the most fashionable architects in town, was selected to build the charitable institution. Work began in 1826 and three years later a two-storey castle-like edifice with boxes for the horses, rooms for the grooms, a stately staircase and a dungeon which offered spectacular view of the park had come into being. L’Ami moved there in 1829 and spent the two last years of his eventful horse existence in the newly constructed Imperial Institute for Invalid Horses.
Upon his death in 1831, no one could decide of how to dispose of the hero’s body. The Emperor’s order was once again very clear. Bury him is state, of course. A marble gravestone with the horse’s name written in gold, mentioning the dates of birth and death, the name of his royal owner and the memorable feats that had marked his career was produced and the first stately grave was made. One hundred and twenty other horses who had had “the honour to carry their imperial highnesses” followed and a unique equine necropolis was created.
All went smoothly until the Revolution in 1917 when the place gradually fell into oblivion. Maintenance ceased; the building was transformed into a warehouse and the graveyard became a rubbish dump. Fortunately, the graves were not destroyed and the layers of litter piled on top of them mercifully protected this exceptional tribute to horses from final violation.
One had to wait for some 80 years when in 1997 a group of French enthusiasts, who knew of the Institute from 19th century press articles, began collecting money so that the graveyard could be restored to its former solemn tranquillity. Persuading the Russian authorities of the cultural importance of an-almost-two-centuries old horse cemetery wasn’t exactly easy and yet an eminent professor, who had been involved in the restoration of many historical buildings, was summoned. He put together a knowledgeable team and work slowly began.
Thus, the tourist visiting one of Russia’s most spectacular architectural ensembles in Tsarskoe Selo may come across a quiet spot where 120 newly restored graves form the world’s largest horse graveyard and bear witness to the undying bond between man and horse.
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